At first I was hesitant to buy the PC PIN100. The reviews were the core of my concern. Does it leave a dent in the work? Will it quickly malfunction? Is the pin visible? Is it a quality tool, or a piece of junk? I took it out of the carrying case, and the clear plastic wrap, and immediately put 5 drops of the oil that comes in the kit, in the air nozzle. I wanted to ward off any jamming problems. Upon loading the nails, I noticed that there were multiple arrows printed on the side of the nail strip. That way you would load them in the right direction. If you ignored the arrows, and loaded them upside down, which is possible considering the small size of the pins, the sharp, fine, thin tip would be up, to do battle with the hammer coming down. Certainly, it would veer off to one side, thereby freezing the hammer and pin. In addition that kind of action could score the shaft, and that would lead to other possible misfires. People reporting problems with jams could have done just that. The top of the pin has a blunt-flat end on it, and the business end is sharp. Since they are so tiny, if you don't notice the arrows on the side, it is easy to load them upside down. These pins are not serrated, or ring shanked, but rather smooth on the sides. That way they don't receive resistance on the way down. Important considering their fine size. I was able to take the 3/4" pins, that come with the kit, and drive several into a 3/4" piece of oak, without any problems whatsoever. I first tested it out on a piece of scrap pine. Since I loaded the nailer with oil, it came out of the nose quite readily, which made a slight black mark where the pin went into the wood. Since the pine is very light, it showed. It was worth it, I wanted to break it in properly. After about 20 pins the oil cleared, I then went onto the oak, and it left a pin without any blemish. All in all with all of my testing, the pin nailer never misfired, or even hinted, at a misfire even once. I put it to the test with firing nails, as fast as I could squeeze the trigger, and never a problem or a glitch. You can fire a lot of nails very quickly with this tool. It doesn't have the safety nose that requires plunging like the rest of the Porter Cable finish nailer line. That way you can get into finely cramped quarters, and get the pin in at your desired angle. What PC did, was put two levers on the handle, one is a safety release, and the other one is the firing trigger. It is well engineered that way, and is easy and intuitive to use. How about the pin, does it show? On the first test pieces, with 5 drops of break in oil, it showed on the pine. After blowing it out with 20 pins, the oil deposits stopped, and all you saw was the pin hole. Does the pin hole become invisible by wiping water on the wood? I am getting critical here, but yes it does show. I was dreaming of the wood swelling, and making the pin hole completely invisible. That didn't happen in the pine and oak I tested it in. BUT the pin hole is so small, that all but the most critical customers will object to it. I have to admit that it is so tiny, that it couldn't be any smaller without disappearing altogether. Miniscule is the appropriate word here. It makes an 18 gauge finish nail look like a crater in comparison. For light colored wood it is barely visible, and for medium to dark woods it will disappear altogether. So if you are looking to attach really fine work, like 1/4" quarter round mldgs, this is just what the doctor ordered. I tried to be critical of the impression if any the head would leave in the work. When working with oak, even at the highest pressures, it did not leave a mark. Pine on the other hand, required a gentle touch. If you pressed down on the head while firing, it left a tiny impression. If you laid the head gently onto the surface, and fired, it left no impression whatsoever. Considering that pine is so soft, that you can leave an impression in it with your finger nail, I laid to rest any concerns about dimples in the wood. The air pressure range prescribed by PC is 60 to 100 PSI. It is advisable to stay within that range, whereas excessive pressures can cause problems. I imagine the firing apparatus is designed to ideally work within those ranges, and subjecting it to excessive pressure is reason for concern. I tweaked my regulator on the wall to 105 pounds, which would give me 100 or less at the gun, and it fired well without any difference in the head impression on the work. So what does all of this mean? Simply put, I love this tool. It does the job beautifully, appears to do so without any suggestion of malfunctioning. I have the Porter Cable 16 gauge, and the 18 gauge both in the BN 125A and the 200A, and this makes my fourth PC finish level nailer, and not one of them has given me any problems. (They can misfire if you run them dry. I guess that is why PC always includes a squeeze bottle of oil with every nailer.) This is a keeper. I bought the other size pin nails as well. They come in 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", and 1 inch. It comes with the 3/4", so I picked up the other sizes. I am looking forward to using the PC PIN100 in doing the fine work. You can spend a lot of time, and get a large project to really look fine, but the small details can make the difference of looking like artwork, or a signature of a less skilled practitioner. This tool will make you an artist, on the detail work. Highly recommended.

By accident, I managed to have an opportunity to compare both this abd the Senco pin nailer in close combat. Actually, the accident was one too many jams with the Senco when I was in an irritable mood, which became the occasion for returning the one and buying the Porter-Cable. The second time through, I knew I had done the right thing.

The project at hand required a lot of crawling around and under, and using several different lengths of pins. The PIN100 never jammed. In retrospect the only small irritations occurred before I got used to the trigger safety. Which insisted on doing what it was supposed to do - keeping me from pinning myself. This is a very light-weight, easy to work tool - perfect for hobbyists and for professionals.

The nail size adjustment is automatic, if you follow the instructions. One thing to keep in mind is that the pins get driven below the surface only erratically. But they never stopped above the surface either. But remember to work with the air at about 100 psi. I wound up taking a nail and grinding the tip a bit to sink the pins, and this worked fine. On dark wood or with some carefil placement, they pretty much disappear.

The best recommendation I can give is that I find myself reaching for the PIN100 a lot when I'm gluing up small joinery. It has saved me a lot of time and added an extra element of security. I think that if you try it, you will see what I mean.

On commercially made frame and panel doors you will notice two tiny little holes (that have been filled) on the back side of each joint. Even old dogs like me can learn a new trick once and awhile, and this struck me as a brilliant way of NOT being forced to wait for glue to set during the assembly process of frame and panel doors. My last project had 82 frame and panel doors and finished panels, and even gluing up two at a time in one set of clamps, I ran out of clamps pretty quick and then had to wait at least an hour prior to the assembly of more. My current project has 56 framed panels in 3/4" thick Western Red Cedar, Pine and Iroko so I decided to try a new way of assembly rather than play the waiting game. My PC pinner was purchased for just this purpose and I'm happy to report that this technique works like a charm and the glue joints remain tight while the glue sets AND the pin holes are truly "pin holes". On my current project the back-side of the panels is not visible so therefore I don't need to fill these holes, but on "good two side" projects these holes will not be an issue to fill. The longer the panel sits in clamps the better chance the glue has to "grab". To facilitate this I used two sets of clamps. I glued and assembled one panel in the first set of clamps, fired 5/8" pins into the joints and let that sit while I assembled a second panel in the second set of clamps. The clamps pull the joint together and the 5/8" long pins perfectly "pin" the tenon in the joint and hold the frame together once released from the clamps. Once the third panel was assembled I went back and removed the first panel from the clamps and set it aside to allow the glue to completely set, by the time I got back to the first panel the glue had just enough time to grab and the joint didn't budge. Just remember that they are 23 gauge pins and are there only to hold things together until the glue does it's job, so you can't be reefing on the joints until the glue has been completely set. In this alternating method I assembled all 56 panels in less than a day, totally cool! I estimated it would have taken the better part of a week to have done the same in the "traditional" way with only clamps. The PC pinner performed flawlessly even without "PC brand" pins and regardless of the material (Western Red Cedar is like hard butter and Iroko is just as hard and stringy as Elm) the pins were set perfectly each and every time at 100 psi. For everyone who has used nail guns, you do have a tendency to push down prior to firing a nail to push back the safety arm. This pinner has a trigger safety on it that you pull back with your finger, so there is no requirement to push down, just set the nose on the surface and pull the trigger. There is a bit of bounce back but I found that even on Western Red Cedar I could avoid a large "nose dint" by using care in how I held the gun against the surface of the material. I can see how this gun would be very easy to jamb as the pins have no head. The pins have an arrow on them indicating which way they get inserted in the gun for good reason. The ram is tiny and must be machined to very tight tolerances (which contributes greatly to the high cost of such a small and specialized tool), I would imagine that if the ram gets distorted or damaged in any way this gun will be problematic from there ever-after. So handle and use this tool with care, if ever there was a nail gun to put the prescribed drop of oil in prior to use this is it. I'm sure I will find a million other uses for this gun over time, but for now I'm very pleased that it worked like a charm for the purpose I bought if for. You've got to love it when a new tool pays for itself on the first job! One other piece of advice, this is NOT the gun for you if you are looking for a "nail gun". This is a "pinner" and should ONLY be used for that purpose. It can fire pins between 1/2" and 1" in length ONLY, most nail guns can fire nails from 3/4" to 2 1/2" in length. For general nailing buy a gun that fires 18 or 15 gauge nails, they are relatively cheap, much more durable and the nails are cheaper. Made in Taiwan yes, but made to very high standards so I have nothing disparaging to say on that front. Highly recommended.

I use this tool on a professional basis along side another Senco pinner I have. I use both with different depth pins so I don't waste time reloading from one length to the next. The PC is a wonderful tool every bit as good as the Senco and has given me a solid 6 months of use without a hitch or a mis-fire. No problem from hickory, maple, or oak as far as splitting and I use it to apply appliques of all types to my cabinets, and you never see the pin!

Wow, my review certainly will be in the minority around here, but I must share my feelings about this pinner. I think PC makes some of the best tools out there, but it's my belief this pinner isn't one of them which I've owned for several months now. The only problem I have with it is it sets the pins just barely beneath the surface, a little sanding and bingo a little shiny head appears. This is my 1st pinner so I didn't and still don't know exactly what to expect of these things, but my gut tells me the nail should be set a little more beneath the surface than this PC does. I'm going to get another pinner just to see if it's any better. Yep, I had the pressure cranked up to 110#, book say 100# max. Didn't seem to matter what length nail I was using, BTW I've shot cherry, red & white oak, poplar and maple all with just about the same results. This thing has never jammed, always shoots every time, never a misfire, but man it does have a hair trigger. I'm glad others are happy with this pinner, but sorry to say I am not. Wonder if I can still return it to Amazon?

3/20/08 - I have since ground down the nose of this pinner, it sets the pins deeper, I am now satisfied.

I bought this after reading the reviews from everyone else. There is always trepidation when you hear pitfalls, especially when you consider the money and sweat-equity that goes into projects. Bottom line: I have encountered absolutely no problems to date. No "nose dents", no jamming, and the pin hole is so small it can be covered up with a wood-filler stick -- if it is needed at all. I've done so many projects the hard way in the past, that I'm kicking myself for not having this over the past few years. I also followed the PC instructions and put in just a couple of drops of oil, and I did not get the oil marks that some reviews mentioned. Additionally, I even used it in a tricky situation where I had to drive pins at an angle joining 2 pieces perpendicularly -- and it was flawless. I've used it on maple, oak and pine. I've run all three wood types (and all using 1" pins) at 80 PSI, and the depth has been perfect. By the way, the automatic adjustment to pin length is worth the price itself just in time (and forgetfulness) savings. I recommend this Pin Nailer highly.

I just couldn't seem to get the thing to reliably set pins below the surface of the wood. At best, it would set them even with
the surface, leaving a nicely visible small shiny dot. At least 50% of the pins would stick up above the surface How much work is it to fix that sort of thing.

I tried it on walnut, pine, poplar, and white oak with only marginal differences between species. I ran the air pressure way up at the nailer with no success. Pin length did not seem to make a difference either (I shot quite a few 1" and 3/4" pins).

The only way I could get the thing to set the pins below the surface was to push the nose firmly into the wood. You guessed it, a noticable dimple from the pressure was the result.

So am I crazy to expect that I can gently place the nose of the nailer against the workpiece, shoot a pin that sets 1/32"+ below the surface, wipe some putty in, and then stand back to admire the work? Such a nailer must exist, but it isn't this one.

I build high end custom furniture for a living, and clamping molding or using break-away pins are both time consuming, not to mention using an 18ga nailer leaving holes. This nailer is a real time saver. I can pin my moldings and move on to the next piece without having to wait for my glue to set-up first. Two things worth mentioning: Have at least 100 psi pressure with a 1/4" hose, and use several drops of oil to ensure complete recessing of the pins in hard woods. Time vs. $, a great investment!

I bought this about a year ago and use it about once a week for pinning returns. Yesterday it stopped firing. When I disassembled it, I found that the slide that sets the pin size was bent where it came off the track. I was able to bang it back into place, but I think it will fail again. I like the size and shape of it. And before it broke, it worked like a charm. I wish it was better made.

I finally decided to take the plunge after hearing a friend of mine rave about how useful pinners are. I have to admit he is right. I have never had a jam or a pin that did not counter sink with this gun. It's perfect for small moldings and appliques. I don't have to worry about splitting my finer moldings as I have had happen when using my 18 gauge brad nailers. Use a gentle touch on soft woods or you will leave a mark as some reviewers have noted. The pin hole appears to be about 1/4 the size of that left by my 18 gauge brad nailers, to my eyes. I would recomend the PC pinner to anyone for delicate work.

I have been looking at pin nailers for a couple of years now and the prices are prohibited for a hobby woodworker like me. This pin nailer is resonable priced and I got it for even a little less on my 'Gold Box' offer. It doesn't have all the capabilities of some of the higher priced models but for me it is more than adequate. It is comfortable in the hand, lightweight and accurate. You need to fool around with the pressure to get the depth you want depending on the material by I think that would be true with any air nailer. A 23 gauge pin is the same size no matter what gun shoots it in so the hole is the same and I don't have any problems with marks.

I recently purchased the Porter Cable 23-gage pin nailer and I'm 100% satistisfied. I'm a carpenter/shop finisher and I prepare and install cabinets and trim pieces. The pin nailer comes in handy when fastening molding or trim pieces where you don't want nail holes to show. Its also usefull when the trim piece is so delicate that nailing is of concern. The 23-gage pin nails hold pieces together without damage. The Porter cable pin nailer in my opinion is probably the best in its class and I highly recommend it. It is accurate when nailing and it is lite in weight. The purpose for the tool probably outways the cost and if your a tool junky like me and you like porter cable products you'll treasure this little guy.

worked great for about 3 moinths, started jamming alot. Can't find relacement hammer/driver. Had order in to tool barn for a month

I love this pin nailer. It really is the next step in "fine" woodworking. Additional pins are sometimes hard to find at the local big-box hardware store, so you might want to get them in with original purchase. I didn't give it a 5 only because I haven't owned long enough, 4 months.
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br /For those that worry about jams, I haven't had one yet. I have used it enough to get a jam if that is problematic with this pin nailer. Enjoy!

As always, I am careful to give the required pre-use prep and treatment of tools I purchase. In this case, I simply placed several drops of the supplied oil into the air connect on the rear of the nailer. I used 1" pins into hard maple custom made moldings for a 6' long salt water aquarium hood. At this time there has never been a jam or failure. On one pin I was not super careful about the angle and the grain caused the tip of the pin to come out on the side. My fault, not the pinner. My only real complaint: the end of the pins do not countersink below the surface as far as I would like, and I am using 100 psi air pressure. I realize I am asking it to countersink into hard maple, but I wish there was an adjustment on the pinner to take care of this problem.

When I first received this nailer I was in heaven, nolonger would I have large nail holes in the prefinished crown and trim that I use every day in putting up cabinets. The nailer worked great for a few months than it started to jam and miss fire, now I spend more time working on the gun than nailing!!! I am presently looking for another good micro pinner, can you recomend one? I have a friend who has a sinco and he is also having problems!!!

I've shot over 7,000 nails from this gun so far and have never had a problem. This is now the 5th pneumatic nailer that I've purchased from PC and have been extremely happy with every one of them (round head framing, 18 gauge brad, coil roofing, 1/4" staple).
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br /I've even tried to jam this gun while at my house so that I would know how to clear the jam on a job site without a lot of down time....I couldn't get it to jam, even when I installed the nails upside-down.
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br /I've seen other reviews regarding adjusing the magazine to accept nails of different lengths - that must be the older version - with the newer version that I have, you can load 50 1/2" nails right behind a set of 50 1" nails and the gun keeps firing straight through the transition.

The nailer is light weight and well balanced. The head doesn't mar the wood surface and produces an almost indistinguishable hole in the wood. A great value.

Nailer works perfectly on oaks and maple. A real time saver. No jams. I highly recommend this product for fine trim work.

This tool saves me a ton of time. I install cabinets and I no longer have to fill in nail holes in scribe. The tool performs wonderfully; automatically adjusts for different sized nails, no jams, durable, safety; excellent tool in both quality and invention.

We are a professional cabinet shop. (Plumbridge Custom Cabinets in Duarte, Ca) We have 2 of these guns. Using 23 guage pins saves a ton of work installing prefinished trim!!
br / This gun works fine at first -until you loose a rack of 1/2 pins inside the magazine. 30 minutes later, you have the magazine dis-assembled (not made to be easy to do), and the nails out. You see, you have to move a slide on the magazine to the correct position for each nail length you use. Slide it for a moment the wrong way, and poof! your little 1/2 nails fall deep into the magazine and you have to tear it down again.
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br /Then I bought a Grex P630- a few dollars more, but the difference is so obvious. It's completely impossible to jamb the magazine- the design and construction of this entire gun is flawless. We have never had a single problem with Grex guns in over a year of almost daily use. If you need a pin nailer for hobby use, the cheaper porter cable is fine I suppose. But if you make a living with your tools, I suggest you let loose the extra few bucks for a Grex- you will not regret it.
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Out of two sticks (100 each) of pins shot during my first project, there were more than 20 jams per stick. Although the jams were easily removed, it was the magnitude that was very disturbing...normally you may get 1 or 2 daily...not 20-40. The pressure was set correctly and I was using the pins provided in the kit but later changed to a PK package of pins on hand but the jams persisted. Other than jamming, the other features worked well. Of all my PK tools, this is the first to fail me.

this pin nailer is a nice addition to any finish nailing set. Perfect for when you want to tack something in place while your glue sets up.
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br /The only thing I would add here is that the double trigger takes a little more care to use. Unlike my Porter-Cable 16 gauge finish nailers, with this you have to hold the safety down and then pull the main trigger. This is fine and it does mean you need to think about using the thing at first.
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br /Just don't forget to release the safety finger when you're done. The main trigger is very light.

After several weeks of debating the need for a pin nailer, I decided to go ahead and purchase one. The only thing left to do was research which model to buy. Compared to other brands, the Porter-Cable PIN100 had some great reviews and very few negative ones. Since I already owned two other Porter-Cable nailers and have been completely satisfied with them, I ordered the PIN100. I put it to work the same day it was delivered. One area of question/concern regarding other pinners was immediately put to rest: this pinner adequately sets the entire pin below the surface of the wood. I fired several pins into oak at 90 PSI without a single problem. All pinners will mar the wood if you press too hard when firing. By simply allowing the pinner to stand on its own weight, I was driving pins with perfection - and without a need for wood filler. Great job, Porter-Cable!

I purchased the Porter Cable pin nailer to use in constructing some stereo cabinets. I needed something that would allow me to hold molding in place while the glue set, but would not be too visible. The pin nailer performed as advertised leaving only the smallest of holes. Contrary to one review that complained of constant jamming, I have yet to have this happen!!! I am completely satisfied with the nailer.

Be careful when pressing the tip against the wood. It will marr softer woods.
br /The nailer seats the pins properly and is jam free.

I purchased this gun several weeks ago and have been using it very frequently installing caps, small crowns and some moulding on my furniture. It works exactly as described and am very pleased with it's peformance. It shoots nails so small that the nail holes are almost invisible.
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br /I only have one gripe with it. The trigger is made out of cheap plastic! I would have thought such a well built gun would have a stronger trigger made out of metal. I was a little dissapointed initially, but I will just have to see if this trigger will outlast the gun. I would have given it a 5 if the trigger was metal like most solid pro guns.

This nailer is very compact, lightweight and versatile. Priced right for the average homeowner or contractor.

you can shave the noze of the nailer with a grinder by taking off a 1/32 or even a 1/16. that should set the pins below the surface i've done it with several guns and it works just fine, just adjust the pressure if you have to!!!!!

Straight forward, easy to use pin nailer. I have used it quite a bit since purchasing it and everything works as advertised. A week after I bought it, I found it at Home Depot for $10 less than I paid on Amazon. I have no regrets however. Amazon's service was fast and got it to my door in time for my project requiring a pinner.

Porter-Cable PIN100 1/2-Inch to 1-Inch 23-Gauge Pin NailerI used it for window trim and it worked great. I like that all you see is a small dot where the pin went into the wood. It is still hard to get pin nails for it , but I found two places that have them.

Even though I have a slew of Porter-Cable tools, this was my first purchase of an air tool. I could not be happier with this item. I read the instruction book, followed the suggestions in it and have enjoyed a trouble free month. I put around 1000 pins through the nailer and did not experience any trouble at all. The entrance hole is virtually invisible compared to a brad. I would recommend this tool to anybody.

This is one well built nailer, the double trigger is a good safty feature, it takes a little getting use to but I like it. Push this gun as hard as you want and it fires jam free. Good balance and grip. Beware when working with soft wood like pine, if you press the tip of the gun on the surface of the work piece to hard it will leave a dimple in the wood. This gun is great for trim and will sink the pins below the surface even in oak, and leaves a pin size hole thats very small.

I use this tool on a weekly basis, and as long as I keep it oiled, it works flawlessly. When I first received it, the hammer was stuck. I loosened the top, oiled it, and it hasn't missed a beat since. I use it to attach finish trim, and have gone throught about 5000 pins in the past year through this tool. It's awesome for finish work. I'd highly recommend it to either the contractor or the advanced wood shop guy

I purchased this tool to hold small work in place while the glue dries. In particular, my wife had me build some valences for our windows, and the pin nailer came in handy to hold the 1/4 inch panels to the 1 X 4 pine while the glue dried. Also, it comes in handy for holding small molding strips for the same reason. I have a PC 16 gauge finish nailer, but the nails would have been too big for the job.

The pin nailer performed flawlessly during installation of very thin cherry trim moulding around perimeter of granite countertop to cabinets. The nail hole is practically invisible no filling was required for the one-half inch pin.

I've used this nail gun several times, I'm not a professional however i did many projects,
br /it worked as well as I've needed to.
br /This is a second unit I've bought.
br /Love it.

This product has everything I was looking for and more. I have used it quite a bit and it works great.
br /Mike

I have used this pinner with a variety of pins, from 1/2 inch to 1 inch and a couple of sizes in between. The most challenging part of using it is loading the pins, which are quite delicate. It has yet to misfire or double-nail or any of the other common issues with nailers. It leaves basically no mark in hardwood, and a very small indentation in softwoods. Getting the air pressure right is the trick to a perfectly flush pin that's nearly invisible, especially in oak and other boards with dark grain lines and ray flecking. This is important to me, as I'm a hobby furniture builder and cabinetmaker.
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br /I'm sure the Grex is a very nice pinner, but for the price I think this nailer is great. It's also a great complement to my other Porter-Cable nailers, which include the BN125 18-ga brad nailer and the FN250 16-ga finish nailer. All of these products have good features, fit and finish, and dollar value. I've never had a problem with any of them after several years of regular use.

This is the first Porter-cable I've owned and I love it! It's light weight and easy to use. The pins go in flawlessly and leave almost no hole. Great for trim work and anything visilbe after finishing. Built solid. I'm very impressed.

Porter-Cable PIN100 1/2-Inch to 1-Inch 23-Gauge Pin NailerI got this pin nailer because my wood working mentor had one. I use it to pin joints together while the glue dries. It saves a lot of time and I don't need as many clamps to do the job. If you read the instructions that come with the nailer you shouldn't have problems with it.

I read a lot of reviews for several different pin nailers. I have nothing negative to say about this gun. Works beautifully every time. Considering it is three times "Less expensive", you can't go wrong.

I have had this nailer since April and has seen a lot of use and I must say this is an excellent nailer. If you think and 18g nailer leaves a small hole you would be amazed that these nails leave next to no visible mark. You truly have to see it to believe it. I have used this nailer for fine trim work on night stands, coffee tables and other furniture with amazing results. It goes through oak, hickory, ash, and brazilan walnut with no problems. I have also used it to put on quarter round with excellent results. I have shot over well 2000 nails with this without a single jam or misfire. This is an excellent nailer at a great price.

I am very satisfied with this product. I own several Porter Cable tools and have always been content with my choice. I think considering their very competitive price range they offer the best of both worlds in terms of satisfaction and quality. I highly recommend their products.

Nailer works great, having a 23 gauge pin nailer has certainly made finish work much easier. Loading the pins isn't difficult, but I'm never sure if it was done correctly.

This is a super gun. I have never had a problem with it as long as I've had my compressor at at least 100psi. Buy it!

i needed a smaller nailer to attach molding to various woodworking project i make. this was perfect. lightweight, easy to operate (even the double trigger was easy to use) and you could put the pins exactly where you wanted them. after experimenting with various wood dimensions, i got down to 1/8 inch and was still able to pin an attachment without splitting. the residual holes are visible in both light and dark woods, but more difficult to see in dark wood.
pins penetrate hardwoods and soft woods well.
just be sure to down set you pressure to about 65 psi or you will get *hammer* marks

Porter-Cable pin100 worked great right out of the box. You just have to make sure you put the pins in the right way..I put a few drops of oil in test fired a few shots an started right away. I got a few trim jobs done and the pins are hardly noticable

This is a very nice tool. I make a lot of bird houses using thin wood, decorated with small branches. Using the pin nailer, I can put them together with glue and a few pins--no splits in thin wood and not very noticeable. This is another great Portable Cable tool.

This pin nailer is performing flawlessly and I am very pleased with how well it drives pins in thin material without splitting.

A great gun that produces a very, very small hole with a consistent shot. I have not have a jam yet..Good one PC!

As always, Porter Cable has come through with a stellar gun! This is a must for all fine work including small mouldings. Easy to load and very reliable.
br /You will not be disappointed with this pin nailer.

For anyone doing fine finish carpentry or cabinet work, this is an ideal tool. The holes the 23 gauge pins leave in the finished wood surface are so small that they are almost invisible, and it is very accurate for pin placement. The use of a couple of pins saves a lot of clamping time, and completes projects much faster.
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br /My only complaint about this tool is the pins are a little hard to find, except on the internet.

I'll admit I don't try to use this for *everything*, but I do try to use it everywhere possible. I bought mine used, and used it obviously was. I have no idea how the previous owner used the gun, but it was clearly not a dust collector.
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br /The gun requires more air pressure than I guessed - somewhere between 100~110 psi. Not a lot of air - just a little surprising for a gun/fasteners this small. So far, I've gone through a box or 2 of pins, without a single jam or misfire. The auto pin setting has worked flawlessly. I'd be happy with that level of reliability from a new gun, let alone a used one.
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This is a great tool to own if you are into the fine details of woodworking. The tool performs very well and the hole is leaves looks like a speck.

I could rant and rave for hours over this pinner but I won't bore you all to death. I purchased 3 of these so called pinners for my shop and not one of them ever worked. All of them left 5 of 10 pins unset and all 3 pinners jammed about every 7 to 10 pins shot. And isn't that fun getting the allen wrench out to unscrew the front face to unjam it every couple of shots. Now if it were only one gun doing this I might think I have a bad piston assembly. But when all 3 perform the same way, heh, yes it is a bad piston assembly, designed by PC. You would be better off with the Senco micro pinner or even better yet buy the cheapest and most reliable one out there that I have found to date, and that would be the Grizzly pinner, made in good ol' Taiwan. At least it works.
br /And forget any help from PC, they are all clueless and all they could tell me was to pay to ship it to them so they could look at it and pay to have it shipped back to me.
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br /Bottom line, junk.... Save your money

I have used a senco before and liked it a lot but porter cable is less expensive ($99 at amazon) and it is the usuall great porter cable quality. I have their router and biscuit slotter and three other nail guns and compressor. ALL work great. This gun is small and light. Drives the pin flush but use a light touch so the tool does not dent the wood. The two stage trigger is necessary because you do not have a safety at the nailing point. But it is easy to get used to. Not all pin nailers will drive every size pin, this one will. I anticipate using this one a lot.

GREAT LITTLE NAILER IT DOES EVEN LEAVE A HOLE BIG ENOUGH TO FILL
br /I RECOMEND THIS NAIL FOR ANYONE DOING SMALL MOLDING OR PROJECTS.

Product does its job but design could be better. I was disappointed to find that air pressure could not be adjusted at the pin nailer, itself, instead of having to adjust at the compressor. The double trigger safety takes a bit of getting used to; however, this comes, in time

Throw the senco and grex away this is the best . easy to use no adjusting

Quality, Dependability, and the Porter-Cable reputation!
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br /Great Tool!

I like this gun; it does everything claimed of it. It is very difficult to spot the pin holes, and they probably don't need filling. But it is possible to spot the hole if you know where to look for it. I wonder if it would be possible, though, to paint the head ends of the pins, prior to use, with an enamel that matched the workpiece and that would stand up to the plunger. I haven't tried this but it would be really cool if it worked. One thing I have tried, though, that worked fine, is to find a tiny little knot that is near where I want to drive the pin and put it right at the center of it. The nose is so tiny that it's possible to locate the pin so accurately that you can put it smack in the center of these tiny little knots. The pin is much less noticeable there because people expect to see a variation of color at that point. It is true, though, that the nose mars the work if the work is soft, but one way to address that problem is to put a small piece of masking tape on the work over the area. Use a little extra pressure so the pin won't be driven proud of the work. After the pin is driving, remove the tape. Voila-no marring.The only real downside is the length of the pins-or lack thereof. You can't use it for really thick door or window trim, although I do, toward the thin side. There is one trick for this that I haven't tried but I think would work (keyhole slots with screws on the thick side; slide it in place, then secure with pins) but it's very labor intensive. I think PC should come with an 1.5 inch gun, and, when they do, give us full retail for our old guns in trade for it. (Right!)

yOU CAN PAY $100 FOR THIS AS I DID, OR YOU CAN GET IT FOR FREE WHEN YOU BUY THE pc 3 NAIL GUN AND COMPRESSOR KIT FROM hOME dEPOT.

Major disappointment. First it wouldn't set the 3/4" pins below the surface of the 1/4" maple scribe that I was attaching to 3/4 ply using 120 psi. No adjustment to set the depth deeper. In softer woods it would set the pin, but leave a big dimple from the un-padded shoe. After about 30 pins it quit working. The piston would not return to its upper position. Cleaned and lubed and it still wouldn't work. I'm shipping it back and am ordering the Senco. P.C. is catering to the hobbiest now days, not to the professional.